
Gorchichniki
I spent the entire month of September 2003 in Saint
Petersburg for a total-immersion Russian language training course. Having
already been to Moscow in 1996 & 1998,
I jumped at the chance to spend some time in "Piter."
My hosts were Svetlana
("Sveta") and her father,
Anatoli. They have a two-room apartment on Shevchenko
Street on
the unfashionable western end of Vasilievsky Island. Sveta works
as
a receptionist
for a travel agency on Nevsky Prospekt, and Anatoli works as a
security guard for a storage company to supplement his government
pension of about $50 per month.
They were very hospitable, and we got along very well. I didn't
see Anatoli very much, because he was taking a month off from work
to take care of some things at their dacha in the village of Toksovo,
north of the city.
About halfway through
my stay—as could be expected for anyone
making the transition from Hawaii to Russia—I got a terrible
cold that
lasted
over a week. It reached its peak one Friday evening, when I spent
the
whole time at dinner sniffling, snorting, and blowing
my nose.
Finally, Anatoli looked
at me and said, "You
need a hot bath, a cup of raspberry tea, and some gorchichniki."
Well, I didn't
know what a "gorchichnik" was,
but I was pretty sure I recognized the root word "gorchitsa" — mustard.
"Mustard?" I stammered. "Are
you saying 'mustard'?"
"Well, yes," he answered. "It's basically
dried mustard on paper. You wet it and stick it to your skin. Usually
two on your chest and five or six on your back." He was describing
an old-fashioned mustard plaster, something I had never experienced
before.
He handed me the colorful packet of gorchichniki for
my inspection. I read on the back of the packet, "The procedure
takes 5-15 minutes, until the appearance of pronounced reddening
of the skin and strong burning."
"Burning?!" I
exclaimed.
Anatoli laughed. "No, not burning," he reassured
me. Then, as he thought about it a bit, he added, "Well, I guess
it does burn."
"Uh, I'm willing to take the hot bath and try
the raspberry tea," I replied, "But I don't think I'm interested
in the gorchichniki."
"No, no, no," he said. "You
have to do the whole komplekt, otherwise it won't work
right."
Although I was unconvinced, he seemed sincere
and very keen to help me, so I relented.
I sighed. "Ladno, poprobuem." ("Fine,
let's try it.")
The first step was the hot bath. He filled the tub
with scalding water and told me to lie in it up to my neck for about
20 minutes. I closed the bathroom door, and tried to get into the
water, but it was far hotter than I can stand. I surreptitiously
added cold water (by sticking the hand-held shower head underwater)
until
I got it down to a temperature that I could tolerate. Once I immersed
myself
in
the
water, I soon
discovered
that it was
still a little hotter than I would have liked, but I decided to tough
it out.
After my soak, Anatoli had me go into my room and lay
on my stomach on a blanket. He applied six steaming mustard plasters
to my back, and then covered me with the blanket. He then had me
roll over onto my back, still holding the blanket so the plasters
wouldn't fall off. Then he had me apply two plasters myself to my
chest. Then he pulled the free end of the blanket around me, wrapping
me up like an egg roll complete with hot mustard. He slipped an electric
heating pad under my back, and covered me with the feather comforter
from the bed.
"Just lie there comfortably, and I'll check on
you in a few minutes," Anatoli said, leaving the room. He was
clearly enjoying his role as nurse.
The mustard went to work almost immediately. They went
from warm to hot to blisteringly hot in a matter of minutes. I quickly
came to understand why mustard is outlawed by the Geneva Convention.
Anatoli checked
back in a few minutes, and asked, "Are
they starting to warm up?"
"Yes, they're very hot." I answered. "When
can we take them off?"
He laughed. "Oh, they're just getting started!
Give them about fifteen minutes so you can get nice and red!" He
left me to my suffering.
As I lay there under the feather comforter and on top
of the heating pad, I tried to flinch away from the searing pain
of the mustard on my body. This of course did no good, since they
were glued to my skin. Panic was beginning to set in as I pictured
my skin peeling away in layers. Through the fog of my pain, I did
notice, however, that my lungs and my head were both completely clear.
Could this torture be working?
When Anatoli finally returned to remove the mustard
plasters, I was drenched with sweat. He pulled off all the plasters,
and wiped me down with paper towels. Then he told me to get back
under the comforter while he finished making my raspberry tea.
When he finally came in with a big cup full of raspberry
tea (piping hot, naturally), he told me to drink it down as quickly
as I could and to eat the raspberries as well. I don't normally like
raspberries, but this tea actually tasted pretty good, and I drank
it down pretty quickly. Anatoli then took my cup away, wished me
good night, and turned out the light. Exhausted from the ordeal,
I fell asleep quickly.
I slept until about 10:00 the following morning, when
I was awoken by Sveta and Anatoli milling around in the kitchen.
And you know what? I actually felt better. The Russian home remedy
torture regimen had worked!